Cruising the Galapagos on Josie Maria – 20th April 2016 to 22nd May 2016 (Our 15 day Island Cruise was from the 26th April to the 10th May)
Preamable….
Not for the faint hearted…. you need to be prepared to pay out the mullah and do lots of paperwork - you also need to abide by all the rules!! But do they say, “no pain no gain”…. and the experience was incredible and not to be missed!! Cruising the Galapagos Archipelago on our own yacht has been a highlight of our voyage to Australia! This is not something that most yachts can do as it is a very expensive exercise, and without an agent that specialises in this kind of trip and have the right government contacts to make it happen is hard to find. The paper work will fill a full folder.
A quick note for people like us who dream of visiting the Galapagos, your options are ; book a holiday with an agent - typically around US$4-5k per person plus your airfares for about a week. You get to live on a motor yacht and you visit most of the islands we have seen. This is by far the best option if you are coming here for a specific holiday by plane. An even cheaper version is to arrive either by plane or your yacht (and have it moored outside San
The experience was enriching, the environment so unique and the natural flora and fauna, numerous, diverse and so different to that anywhere else! It felt like we had gone back to what the oceans would have been like before man fished the seas and polluted the water. The snorkelling we undertook was the best we have ever done – with massive schools of fish, lots of turtles, marine iguanas, sea-lions, sea birds (penguins and flightless cormorants) and sharks!!
First Impressions…
We arrive at San Cristobal at 1000 hours on the 20th April 2016, and drop anchor in the anchorage in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno. The Juvenile Red Footed Booby happy to be home has left us and we are joined by sea-lions! The weather is calm and the mist lifting with the suns heat. Just after midday we welcome an entourage of officials on-board, 10 officials in total (by far the largest group we have entertained on-board) and are glad we stocked up on Coke!
We needed to have the boat fumigated (for the second time) as the fumigation we had done in Panama was not adequate for the new rules…. After we received all the necessary permissions and paperwork from immigration, customs, biosecurity and so on….we went ashore in a water taxi.
The officials were all very pleasant and courteous and apart from being a bit daunting to have so many at once it was a positive experience!! The actual check-in process was quite speedy – it helps having an agent!
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Well, that went well.. I guess we can stay... |
We needed to have the boat fumigated (for the second time) as the fumigation we had done in Panama was not adequate for the new rules…. After we received all the necessary permissions and paperwork from immigration, customs, biosecurity and so on….we went ashore in a water taxi.
The officials were all very pleasant and courteous and apart from being a bit daunting to have so many at once it was a positive experience!! The actual check-in process was quite speedy – it helps having an agent!
The water taxis were fantastic – for 1$ per person you had a ride from your anchorage to the dock, which saved your tender from being sunk (and soiled) by the local sea-lions.
Josie Maria’s transom became home for a family of sea-lions almost immediately and we had to put up a lattice of rope to stop them from jumping in our cock-pit. They are not the cleanest of marine life – so we didn’t want them to actually come on board! They are also not that friendly when you get up close and personal!!
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| Cheap $1 water taxis avoided us to having to use our own tender |
Josie Maria’s transom became home for a family of sea-lions almost immediately and we had to put up a lattice of rope to stop them from jumping in our cock-pit. They are not the cleanest of marine life – so we didn’t want them to actually come on board! They are also not that friendly when you get up close and personal!!
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Don't let the cute look fool you. You can't take them home, and they really really smell ! |
We were greeted by more "locals" later that night, as the streets filled with sea-lions wanting to keep warm of the hot street tiles
The following day John and I had a lunch at “Rositas” and met our agent, Fernando Espinosa, from Galapagos Yacht Agency, for a briefing as to how the whole cruise thing was going to work….
The following day John and I had a lunch at “Rositas” and met our agent, Fernando Espinosa, from Galapagos Yacht Agency, for a briefing as to how the whole cruise thing was going to work….
At this time, we received the approved itinerary (attached) which was made for a boat that averaged at 11 knots. Josie Maria averages at about 6 knots, so right from the start we knew that sticking to the itinerary was going to be difficult (with several overnight runs and activities planned in the morning and afternoon).
Some of the activities were actually impossible to fit in because of the time it took us to move from one location to the next! The problem was – how to stick to the itinerary…. Vicki organised a gruelling schedule for moving Josie Maria from spot to spot and this was then revised with Galo (our naturalist Guide when he came on-board). In effect we followed the itinerary but missed out some of the stops because of time limitations.
In one case (Punta Suarez) we couldn’t anchor because there was such a huge swell running that waves were breaking in our designated anchorage area and it was too dangerous for us to anchor - let alone to do a wet landing in our tender!!
We also had a complete generator failure in Caleta Targus – and needed to stay put while maintenance was done. Ironically a puffer fish had got stuck in the through-holes of our saltwater cooling system, causing the generator to overheat and shut down. Gordon and Charlie managed to release the fish back into the sea (alive after it’s ordeal) and get the generator started again!
The Galapagos is on the equator, and has no marinas - so in May/June while we were cruising around the islands the generator was essential to recharge the boat batteries as well as for running our air-conditioning and making water!!
Some of the activities were actually impossible to fit in because of the time it took us to move from one location to the next! The problem was – how to stick to the itinerary…. Vicki organised a gruelling schedule for moving Josie Maria from spot to spot and this was then revised with Galo (our naturalist Guide when he came on-board). In effect we followed the itinerary but missed out some of the stops because of time limitations.
In one case (Punta Suarez) we couldn’t anchor because there was such a huge swell running that waves were breaking in our designated anchorage area and it was too dangerous for us to anchor - let alone to do a wet landing in our tender!!
We also had a complete generator failure in Caleta Targus – and needed to stay put while maintenance was done. Ironically a puffer fish had got stuck in the through-holes of our saltwater cooling system, causing the generator to overheat and shut down. Gordon and Charlie managed to release the fish back into the sea (alive after it’s ordeal) and get the generator started again!
The Galapagos is on the equator, and has no marinas - so in May/June while we were cruising around the islands the generator was essential to recharge the boat batteries as well as for running our air-conditioning and making water!!
The following was our approved itinerary,
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ITINERARIO DEL VELERO JOSIE MARIA
26 DE ABRIL AL 10 DE MAYO DEL 2016
26-abril-2016 A.M. CENTRO DE INTERPRETACION
P.M. EL JUNCO
27-Abril-2016 A.M. ISLAS LOBOS
P.M. LA GALAPAGUERA ESTADO NATURAL
28-Abril-2016 A.M. PUNTA PITT-ISLOTE PUNTA PITT
P.M. CERRO BRUJO
29-Abril-2016 A.M. PUNTA SUAREZ
P.M. BAHIA GARDNER
30-Abril-2016 A.M. PUNTA CORMORANT
P.M. POST OFFICE
01-Mayo-2016 A.M. ESTACION CHARLES DARWIN
P.M. RANCHO PRIMICIAS. TUNELES Y LOS GEMELOS
02-Mayo-2016 A.M. TINTORERA, HUMEDALES. POZA DE LOS FLAMINGOS
P.M. VOLCAN SIERRA NEGRA
03-Mayo-2016 A.M. PUNTA MORENO
P.M. PUNTA MANGLE
04-Mayo-2016 A.M. PUNTA VICENTE ROCA
P.M. PUNTA ESPINOZA-FERNANDINA
05-Mayo-2016 A.M. CALETA TAGUS
P.M. PUNTA ALBERMALE
06-Mayo-2016 A.M. BAHIA ESPUMILLA
P.M. PUERTO EGAS
07-Mayo-2016 A.M. RABIDA
P.M. SOMBRERO CHINO
08-Mayo-2016 A.M. BAHIA SULLIVAN
P.M. BARTOLOME
09-Mayo-2016 A.M. DAPHNE MAYOR
P.M. SEYMOUR NORTE
10-Mayo-2016 A.M. SANTA FE
P.M. ISLA PLAZAS
GUIA : GALO HERRERA GONZALES
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Provisioning for the cruise was an adventure in itself, with our poor hold on Spanish (the language), and no giant supermarket! Vicki took one look at the butchers and let John do the ordering – there were pigs trotters, chicken feet and other delicacies on display amongst other more unusual cuts!
The locals were so friendly and helpful and we managed to get everything we needed and more and had so much help getting the provisions on-board it was very humbling! We arrived at the ferry dock with boxes of food and drinks and the local children playing there helped load everything into a water taxi and then helped pass it to us on Josie Maria. It would have been quite a challenge without their assistance!
The locals were so friendly and helpful and we managed to get everything we needed and more and had so much help getting the provisions on-board it was very humbling! We arrived at the ferry dock with boxes of food and drinks and the local children playing there helped load everything into a water taxi and then helped pass it to us on Josie Maria. It would have been quite a challenge without their assistance!
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Our resupply run |
David joined us for the 15 cruise, arriving on the 25th of April, so on-board were Gordon, Charlie, John, Vicki, David and our guide Galo. Initially it was very stressful as Gordon dislikes strict itineraries – ultimately the safety of the crew and boat come first! Fortunately, the weather conditions were not adverse and, although the data we had access to on the anchorages and some passages were not as detailed as we were used to, Galo’s local knowledge was invaluable. A big thanks to David for joining us! His presence made the journey all the richer!
The 15 day Galapagos Cruise
Day 1
On the first day of our cruise Josie Maria stayed put in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno (Wreck Bay). Galo, David, Charlie, John and Vicki visited the information Center in San Cristobal, followed by a tree house and then El Junco (the islands natural water supply in the afternoon).
In one day we saw sea-lions (hard to miss because there are so many of them!), Larva lizards, Darwin’s finches, frigate birds diving into the water at El Junco to wash the salt off themselves, Pelicans and Ibises (unfortunately these birds are becoming a nuisance for endemic species). Gordon stayed onboard Josie Maria and saw to the paperwork required to leave port with our Agents help.
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Galo explaining that the Galapagos is an archipelago and it can take a full day sailing to reach each of the islands. |
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This is one serious tree house. You can rent the single bedroom ! |
In one day we saw sea-lions (hard to miss because there are so many of them!), Larva lizards, Darwin’s finches, frigate birds diving into the water at El Junco to wash the salt off themselves, Pelicans and Ibises (unfortunately these birds are becoming a nuisance for endemic species). Gordon stayed onboard Josie Maria and saw to the paperwork required to leave port with our Agents help.
Day 2
Day 2 we motored to our anchorage by Isla Lobos, which took less than 2 hours, and went for a short walk where we saw Red Footed and Blue Footed Boobies (including their mating dance which was very entertaining), nesting and hunting frigate birds (whose hunting technique is to steal food from other seabirds!).
When nesting the male puffs up a red pouch to attract their partner – so they look quite spectacular. We also saw several larva lizards and watched them fight each other – they are territorial and quite brave!! After lunch we headed to the LA GALAPAGUERA ESTADO NATURAL but arrived about an hour before sun set. It was just not possible to do a 4 hour walk and get back before the sun set! It was very disappointing, as this was a rare opportunity that we were given permission for because we were such a small group. Essentially seeing the Galapagos Tortoises in the wild – in most areas on San Cristobal – and other islands within the Galapagos Archipelago, they inhabit areas that are remote and not accessible. Fortunately, we were able to see then on Santa Cruz! Galo took us ashore for a short while and we saw Green Sea Turtle nests, the prints of turtles coming out of the water to lay their eggs and the tiny footprints of hatchings heading back into the sea. That was pretty amazing and after this we saw hundreds of red crabs, which were quite a contrast to the black volcanic rocks on the beach. This beach had beautiful white sand and low sand dunes – so an ideal nesting site for the turtles. It made us really appreciate that much of the Galapagos was a National Park and the conservation now in place was protecting these fragile sites for generations to come.
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Blue Footed Booby with two eggs. Its name comes from the spanish word "bobo" which means stupid, as they are fearless of man and easy to catch for food by hand by the early settlers. |
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A female frigate bird lands on the prepared nest of the male frigate bird and checks out the size of his red pouch...This could be a date. |
When nesting the male puffs up a red pouch to attract their partner – so they look quite spectacular. We also saw several larva lizards and watched them fight each other – they are territorial and quite brave!! After lunch we headed to the LA GALAPAGUERA ESTADO NATURAL but arrived about an hour before sun set. It was just not possible to do a 4 hour walk and get back before the sun set! It was very disappointing, as this was a rare opportunity that we were given permission for because we were such a small group. Essentially seeing the Galapagos Tortoises in the wild – in most areas on San Cristobal – and other islands within the Galapagos Archipelago, they inhabit areas that are remote and not accessible. Fortunately, we were able to see then on Santa Cruz! Galo took us ashore for a short while and we saw Green Sea Turtle nests, the prints of turtles coming out of the water to lay their eggs and the tiny footprints of hatchings heading back into the sea. That was pretty amazing and after this we saw hundreds of red crabs, which were quite a contrast to the black volcanic rocks on the beach. This beach had beautiful white sand and low sand dunes – so an ideal nesting site for the turtles. It made us really appreciate that much of the Galapagos was a National Park and the conservation now in place was protecting these fragile sites for generations to come.
Day 3
In the morning of the 28th April we head to Punta Pitt – where we went for a walk and saw, Boobies nesting, marine Iguana nesting sites, and our first sighting of Nazca Boobies which have yellow beaks. On the beach that we commenced and completed our walk there were lots of female sea lions just chilling in the sun. The walk followed a water course up the cliff face – the views were fantastic! In the afternoon we made are way to Cerro Brujo – a beach where we anchored for dinner. After dinner we lifted the anchor at 2300 hours and headed to Punta Suarez on Isla Espanola (also known as Hood island) – our aim was to see the nesting of the albatross.
Day 4
When we arrived in Punta Suarez in the morning it was too dangerous to anchor there was a massive swell from the NE and breaking waves! We got out of there ASAP and headed for the more sheltered anchorage at Bahia Gardiner, unfortunately seeing nesting Albatroses was not to be. Bahai Gardener was beautiful and we saw lots of sharks feeding on flying fish as the sun set! The snorkeling and beach walk we did where we saw Galapagos Hawks (for the first time) etc. were the highlights!! We spent the night at Bahai Gardener and recovered somewhat from our overnight transfers!
Every day more and more wonders were revealed, so even though we would have loved to stay at some these anchorages a little longer (apart from not being allowed to…) we were always looking forward to the next spot and what wonders that would bring!
Day 5
On the 30th April we headed straight to Punta Cormorant – Corona Del Diablo, on Isla Santa Maria, bypassing the Bahai Post Office, as the distances that we needed to cover were not workable at 6knots! We went for a walk and saw a salt-lake and flamingos – Charlie even had a bird land on his hat when he was trying to get a close-up photo!!
Day 6
Day 6 of the cruise finds us in Santa Cruz (Academy Bay), where we anchor for 1 night. During the day we visit the Charles Darwin Research Station, where we saw hundreds of Galapagos Tortoises and then went inland, by car, to a local ranch in the hills for lunch and a wander through the Galapagos Tortoise territory where we saw several Galapagos Tortoises as well as some mating of and courting. The males loudly grunt when ejaculating – so there are not hard to find!
After lunch we head by car to see the Los Gemelos – twin sink holes – they are massive ones. You wouldn’t have wanted to be anywhere near when they collapsed!
Charlie heads back to Josie Maria after lunch to assist Gordon with refueling Josie Maria – the fuel is necessary as we need to do a lot of motoring and in some places the currents were running at 3 knots against us and we need that generator to keep us cool!! Gordon also deals with the Port captain and our Agent Fernando re all the paperwork required to check-in and out of the port! That evening we depart Santa Cruz after dinner, we have all hands on deck with torches to ensure that we don’t hit anything on the way out of the bay. We navigate out of the Port safely and are on our way to Isla Isabella and Peurto Villamil, only 55 nautical miles away!
After lunch we head by car to see the Los Gemelos – twin sink holes – they are massive ones. You wouldn’t have wanted to be anywhere near when they collapsed!
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| Los Gemelos |
Charlie heads back to Josie Maria after lunch to assist Gordon with refueling Josie Maria – the fuel is necessary as we need to do a lot of motoring and in some places the currents were running at 3 knots against us and we need that generator to keep us cool!! Gordon also deals with the Port captain and our Agent Fernando re all the paperwork required to check-in and out of the port! That evening we depart Santa Cruz after dinner, we have all hands on deck with torches to ensure that we don’t hit anything on the way out of the bay. We navigate out of the Port safely and are on our way to Isla Isabella and Peurto Villamil, only 55 nautical miles away!
Day 7
Day 7 of the cruise sees Josie Maria at anchor in Peurto Villamil. Gordon and our Agent Fernando see to the change of port paperwork and Charlie, David, John, Vicki and Galo head ashore. In the morning we wander along a trail in the Humedales – a magical wetlands area close to the beach and Port and we see flamingos! After lunch in the port we head to Sierra Negra –walking uphill for just over an hour we finally reach the end of the trail the look-out at the trails end was really one of those “Wow” moments – how much more does Galapagos have to offer?
We see the expanse of the Sierra Negra Crater – the beautiful colours and contrasts of the sky,the rocks and the misty clouds pouring like a waterfall over the crater. We soak up the atmosphere, at what feels like the top of the world (in that particular part of the world anyway!), and only the fact that we must be down before the sun sets motivates us to make a move!! We have dinner at the Port and then head back to Josie Maria for another overnight transfer – now heading to Punta Moreno. We decided to miss out on Punta Mangle because we needed to rest. Unfortunately, overnight transfers mean that, due to being on watch at night, we were tired for the daily activities – Charlie and David had no problem but John and Vicki found not sleeping at night and walking and snorkeling for hours each day quite exhausting - in a pleasant way!!
We see the expanse of the Sierra Negra Crater – the beautiful colours and contrasts of the sky,the rocks and the misty clouds pouring like a waterfall over the crater. We soak up the atmosphere, at what feels like the top of the world (in that particular part of the world anyway!), and only the fact that we must be down before the sun sets motivates us to make a move!! We have dinner at the Port and then head back to Josie Maria for another overnight transfer – now heading to Punta Moreno. We decided to miss out on Punta Mangle because we needed to rest. Unfortunately, overnight transfers mean that, due to being on watch at night, we were tired for the daily activities – Charlie and David had no problem but John and Vicki found not sleeping at night and walking and snorkeling for hours each day quite exhausting - in a pleasant way!!
Day 8
Day 8 of the cruise, the 3rd of May, saw us arrive at Punta Moreno, Isla Isabella, at 0800. In the morning Galo, David John and Vicki head out for a walk on the larva flow. We see the beginnings of vegetation in the form of cacti and visited some tidal pools – one which was a real shark tank!! It sort-of blew our minds away that we were so close to a school of sharks. The terrain was heavy going, with lots of sink holes and gas bubbles with black volcanic rock over the top. Charlie meandered the tender into and out of our wet landing point – it was very challenging to say the least! Thanks Charlie! In the afternoon we head north to Punta Vincente Roca. This anchorage was deep (20m) and quite tight – we kept an anchor watch overnight as Gordon was concerned that if the wind shifted we could end up against the rocks – However, all was good!
Day 9
In the morning of the 4rd May we go for a snorkel in Punta Vincente Roca. It was an amazing spot, by now I guess you’ve figured that they all are!! There are penguins, flightless cormorants diving in the water, as well as lots of fish! Vicki had a bit of scare with a Galapagos Shark swimming over her shoulder – as Australians we are not so content to be in the water as Ecuadorians! The sharks do have a lot of natural food but they are curious about us and get very close!! We also went on a tour of the caves and rock walls in our Zodiak, Galo our guide took us on a tour, and pointed out nesting birds, flightless cormorants, penguins, Boobies, and a grey heron catching crabs on the rock!
After lunch we pick up anchor and motor sail down to Punta Espinosa, on Isla Fernandino. Isla Fernandino is the youngest of the Galapagos Islands and still experiences volcanic activity on its West coast. Once at anchor we went for snorkel - what an experience!! There were numerous green sea turtles and marina Iguanas in the water feeding on the sea grass. Vicki enjoyed following a marina iguana in full swimming mode – they don’t move their legs they just swoosh their tail like a sea snake with their legs dangling!! The number and size of the Green Sea Turtles we saw was far greater than anywhere else we have swum. After the snorkel we went on a guided walk to the point – there were marine iguanas everywhere – we had to be very careful where we put our feet! This was a major marine Iguana nesting area – so very sensitive ecologically.
As soon as we were back onboard Josie Maria we pulled up the anchor and headed across the channel to Targus Cove for our overnight anchorage. Targus Cove was a really safe anchorage and a beautiful stopover. It was clear that it had been used as a bay of refuge by many ships as the crew had painted the rock wall with their ships name and the date they were there – there were some from the 1800’s! For a while we were the only yacht in paradise, and even when we shared an anchorage in this part of the cruise there was never more than 3 small boats!
As soon as we were back onboard Josie Maria we pulled up the anchor and headed across the channel to Targus Cove for our overnight anchorage. Targus Cove was a really safe anchorage and a beautiful stopover. It was clear that it had been used as a bay of refuge by many ships as the crew had painted the rock wall with their ships name and the date they were there – there were some from the 1800’s! For a while we were the only yacht in paradise, and even when we shared an anchorage in this part of the cruise there was never more than 3 small boats!
Day 10
On the 5th of May we woke in Targus Cove and went for a “Panga ride”- a tour in our tender - with Galo, Charlie, David, John and Vicki after this we were planning to all go for a walk. The Zodiac tour along the rock walls revealed many nesting sites of birds - there were lots of Galapagos Penguins, flightless Cormorants and Boobies, as well as sea-lions! Upon returning to Josie Maria, we found that Gordon was quite distressed as the generator had just overheated and stopped. Charlie stayed behind to assist Gordon with its repair while Galo, David, John and Vicki went for a walk and saw the Darwin Volcano, and from the look-out could see the latest lava flow on Isla Isabella.
When Galo, John, Vicki and David returned to the Josie Maria the generator problem had been fixed! The cold water in this area mean that there is an abundance of sea life and a puffer fish had decided to sabotage our journey!! Fortunately, Gordon and Charlie not only fixed the generator but also saved this fishes life (after all we were in a National park!). We depart from Targus bay at 1800hrs for Puerto Egas. Unfortunately, the time lost in dealing with the generator failing meant that we needed to overstay in Targus Bay and bypass Punta Albermarle.
Day 11
Day 11 of our cruise, Friday 6th May, we arrive at Peurto Egas at 0800 and drop anchor. After breakfast we go ashore for a quick stroll to see the remnants of a salt mine and then wander to the beach with our guide Galo where we see American Oyster Catchers, Heron. Marina Iguanas, crabs and Sea Lions!
Day 12
Day 12, on the 7th May 2016, John, Vicki, David and Galo head to Rabida and go for a walk on the red volcanic rock – the rock had beautiful swirls and twists as the molten Larva cooled – there were also bee-hive like structures of molten rock called ‘hornettos”. It was amazing to see what nature can produce and the natural patterns in the molten rock as it cooled – quite cool one could say!!
Day 13
On the 8th May, Josie Maria anchors in Sullivan Bay at 0600. In the morning John, David, Vicki and Charlie go for a tender tour with Galo and then for a snorkel. The water is so calm and so clear – like in a well-kept aquarium. From our anchorage you can see at least 30 turtles on the surface, coming up for air! We go for a walk along the beach and up to the rocks where we see a sea-lion that had been trapped in a rock pool and died ,either due to some strong seas or perhaps after a fight with a shark – most likely according to Galo. The snorkeling conditions are that of a swimming pool. John, David, Charlie and Vicki experience snorkeling with baby sea-lions, sea turtles and numerous fish!!
We visit Bartolome in the afternoon - Gordon drops Galo, Charlie, David, John and Vicki at the landing site and we walk to the top of Bartolome and observe the landscape from the lookout at its peak. It was similar to a moon-scape with lots of craters and little life – such a contrast from what lay beneath the surface of the water!
From this vantage point we could see the channel where the English outwitted the French in the movie, “Master and Commander”. It bought us back to the realisation that these islands were of great importance in the years of exploration, providing necessary food (the Galapagos Tortoise, as well as fish) – but not that much water…unless the heavens opened. No wonder the Islands have been described as formidable and enchanted.
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According to U.S. astronaut Buzz Aldrin, Bartolome's pockmarked landscape created by countless extinct volcanoes is very much like the surface of the moon than any other place on Earth |
From this vantage point we could see the channel where the English outwitted the French in the movie, “Master and Commander”. It bought us back to the realisation that these islands were of great importance in the years of exploration, providing necessary food (the Galapagos Tortoise, as well as fish) – but not that much water…unless the heavens opened. No wonder the Islands have been described as formidable and enchanted.
Day 14
On the 9th May 2016 Josie Maria leaves Bahia Sullivan (and motors past Daphne Major) to an anchorage off Seymour Norte then on to Santa Fe (for and overnight at Sante Fe)
At 0600 Josie Maria departs Bahia Sullivan, via Daphne Major, for Seymour Norte [20 nautical miles – so approximately 3.5 hours]. We arrive in Seymour Norte at 0930 – and after a quick snorkel where we see white tipped reef sharks we head back to Josie Maria and prepare ourselves for a walk on Seymour Norte. We see hundreds of nesting frigate birds, land iguanas, nesting blue footed boobies and sealions. This was yet another of those amazing places in the world that shoudn’t be missed. Gordon took us to the wet landing point and then moved Josie Maria, on his own, to a closer anchorage, so his return trip wouldn’t be quite so hairy!
Day 15
As we moved Josie Maria into our designated anchorage at Santa Fe the morning, we thought there was a reef we needed to avoid – as we moved so did it – when snorkeling we realized it was a massive school of Scalina. We’ve never seen anything like it! (don’t want to be boring – but this is the catch cry for most experiences in the Galapagos!!). Following an amazing snorkel where we were in the water with baby sea-lions we went for a short walk where and saw a new species of land iguana. Once back on board we set sail (actually motor sail) for Santa Cruz and Academy Bay. The trip to Academy Bay is approx. 17M and we arrived at 1615 – in time for dinner ashore!. After we dropped anchor we went ashore for a much deserved dinner!!Heading back to San Cristobal so that John, Vicki and David can fly to Australia (for work and social reasons!) and for James and Benoit to join Josie Maria for the journey to Nuka Hiva (Marquesas, French Polynesia)…and then (with Gordon, Charlie and James) on the way to Tahiti!!
At 0630 on the 12th May 2016, Josie Maria departs Santa Cruz for San Cristobal [42 nautical miles] – we drop anchor at 1330 and wait for the arrival of James MacFarlane who is joining Gordon and Charlie for the voyage to Tahiti. James joins Josie Maria and meets the outgoing crew at a dinner in San Cristobal.
John, Vicki and David fly out of Galapagos on the 14th May (via Chile on route to Sydney and back home for an intense 5 weeks of work and social engagements – in hindsight not as dramatic as the experience aboard Josie Maria!)
It is anticipated that Josie Maria will depart the Galapagos on the 20th May (this turns out to be the 22nd May – due to maintenance issues) and Josie Maria departs the Galapagos, fully provisioned and fueled - with Gordon, Charlie, James and Beniot on-board for the passage to Tahiti. Benoit had expressed an interest in joining Josie Maria’s crew for this leg of the journey and Gordon was happy to have the additional hand! James, Benoit and Charlie see to provisions, and Gordon ensures Josie Maria is ship shape for the long voyage to Tahiti. Unfortunately, Josie Maria has problems with her main engine blower and gas solenoid at the nth hour…but it looks like these will be solved and Josie Maria and crew are ready to depart on the 22nd June 2016!
This Experience would not have been possible without a team effort…..so:
“Many thanks to Fernando Espinosa, from Galapagos Yacht Agency, Galo Gonzalez, our very patient and knowledgeable naturalist guide, the myriad of officials who ensured this journey was to be, and the trustee crew of Josie Maria!! “
For those who want to know the about the weather conditions over this period, the wind was light 4-17knots (closer to 10 most of the time) from the SW to SE – we really only managed to sail once – which was exciting for Galo because it was a first! Most of the time we motor sailed – the wind was too light and the time frames too tight!! The seas were fairly calm, apart from the large swell at Punta Suarez, usually less than 1.5m. The weather was fine except for the mist in the evenings.
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Kicker Rock. We never got to dive there as our itinerary did not allow private diving |
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John with his underwater camera setup |
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John and Galo |
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Charlie to the rescue |
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Our farewell dinner. Like all things the trip had an end. Galo particularly liked John's hottest chilli sauce discovery. |
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